PAPUA NEW GUINEA
23 July to 22 August 2006
LEADER : Ian Burrows.
GROUP MEMBERS : Simon Aspinall, Brian Beers, Henk Hendriks, Mike Passant, Paul Passant, Wiel Poelmans, Karl Rahm, Ottie Rahm, & Ollie Wardman.
This was the eighth Sicklebill Safaris Ltd. tour to Papua New Guinea. It was designed to find as many of the endemic species as possible, with special emphasis being placed on the birds of paradise and bowerbirds. Of the sites we visited, most were locally owned, according with Sicklebill Safaris' policy of supporting such minimum impact, sustainable tourism ventures where possible. This can only help to preserve and maintain these unique sites by providing the local people with a regular income from the intact forest, as opposed to the short-term reward and permanent habitat destruction caused by logging.
New Guinea is rightly regarded as an ornithological last frontier and during our visit we made a number of significant observations that will also be published elsewhere. Unlike most tour reports this one gives the location, number of birds seen of each species and descriptions of significant observations that were made. This is good baseline data for future visits.
On arrival at Port Moresby we based ourselves at The Hideaway Hotel which gave us easy access to the airport and was also on the right side of town to access Varirata National Park. After check-in we drove to the Kokoda Trail Monument on the Sogeri Plateau. It was a good introduction to PNG birding as we had excellent views of the endemic Grand and Grey-headed Munias and Yellow-faced Mynas. Fawn-breasted Bowerbirds and Grey Shrike-thrushes proved popular whilst Pied Chats, White-shouldered Fairy-wrens and White-breasted Wood-swallows provided a black and white perspective to our tropical New Guinea experiences.
We then moved on to Varirata National Park where Simon spotted a Yellow-billed Kingfisher in the Casuarina trees near the entrance gate. The bird remained in view for several minutes and gave us excellent views. The main picnic area held Pink-spotted and Beautiful Fruit-Doves, Boyer's and Yellow-eyed Cuckoo-shrikes, Streak-headed Honeyeater and a pair of Brahminy Kites. The Tree-house trail produced Black Berrypecker, Chestnut-bellied Fantail and a very mobile flock of Black-fronted White-eyes whilst the lower part of the picnic area held Frilled and Spot-winged Monarchs and a Papuan Flowerpecker.
Next day we tried the Boundary track and eventually we had great views of three Brown-headed Paradise-Kingfishers although the Painted Quail-thrushes that inhabit the first part of the trail remained tantalisingly vocal but invisible. We made slow progress but quality, not quantity, was reflected in excellent views of a Buff-faced Pygmy-Parrot gleaning a nearby tree trunk and a Mountain Drongo which was the star component of a small feeding flock which also contained Frilled Monarch, Hooded and Rusty Pitohuis and a Dwarf Honeyeater. Around the entrance gate we saw our first Leaden and Lemon-bellied Flycatchers and further along the road we were delighted to see the kitten-like head of a roosting Barred Owlet-nightjar protruding from a tree hole. For most of us this was the best bird of the day. After a long appreciation of this endearing creature we spent some time in the main picnic area again where we were rewarded with excellent views of many Pink-spotted and Orange-bellied Fruit-Doves, a single Ornate Fruit-Dove and a Crinkle-collared Manucode. Next we explored the Varirata Lookout trail which was rather quiet apart from an Olive Flycatcher, Grey Whistler and Stout-billed Cuckoo-shrike although a Gurney's Eagle would have been the bird of the day if it had stayed in view for all of us to see it. The clear view from the Lookout across the valley was an excellent backdrop for the Long-tailed Buzzard which posed on a nearby tree and our first Grey Crows which squawked past. There is a relatively new lek site nearby for Raggiana Birds of Paradise and four males performed almost to order, although the view was partially obscured.
Next day we were at the National Park again where we explored the Gare's Lookout trail. Birds were evenly spread along the trail and we had excellent views of a male Black Cuckoo-shrike, Rusty and Hooded Pitohuis, Papuan Black and Mountain Red-headed Myzomelas, a Blue-faced Parrot-Finch and several Black-fronted White-eyes in the Casuarina zone. In the broad-leaved forest we struck lucky with a small feeding flock near the Lookout which contained Black-winged and Frilled Monarchs, Yellow-breasted Boatbill, Dwarf Whistler, Fairy, Yellow-bellied and Green-backed Gerygones and a Mountain Drongo. Four White-faced Robins showed well for us at various points along the trail and a male and female Eastern Riflebird gave most of us good if brief views. Afterwards we slowly birded our way along the entrance road from the Park with excellent results. An Azure Kingfisher was seen near the ford, White-throated Honeyeaters gave us great views in the Eucalyptus trees, another Gurney's Eagle cruised over the treetops and a Little Eagle also soared above us.
We spent the afternoon at the Pacific Adventist University where we had great views of a good range of marshland and savanna species including Great, Intermediate and Little Egrets, Pied Herons, Cattle Egrets and Rufous Night-Herons. 16 Spotted Whistling Ducks were roosting in the nearby Albizzia trees accompanied by Little Pied and Little Black Cormorants. The ornamental ponds held at least 80 Pacific Black Ducks, about 40 Wandering Whistling Ducks, a single female Green Pygmy-Goose, an Australasian Grebe, 6 Comb-crested Jacanas and a White-browed Crake. Other highlights there were 3 Papuan Frogmouths roosting cryptically in their favourite trees, our only White-bellied Cuckoo-shrikes of the trip, a couple of Brown Orioles calling to each other and some very obliging, territorial, Black-backed Butcherbirds.
Next morning, we had some time to kill pre-flight, so we paid another visit to the Pacific Adventist University and had excellent views of Australian White Ibis, a feeding flock of Rainbow Lorikeets and a roosting flock of Rufous Night Herons. A brief exploration of the perimeter of Jackson's Airport produced our only White-faced Heron of the trip, an Australian Hobby and 5 Singing Bushlarks before we set off for our next destination, Kikori, a complete contrast to the Port Moresby savanna. The Oil Search base at Kopi was full but arrangements had been made for us to stay at Delta Lodge and CDI in Kikori and this definitely worked to our advantage. The weather was kind to us bearing in mind it was the wet season in Gulf Province and we kept fairly dry most of the time. The big covered lorry supplied by Ken Webb was excellent for transporting us with all of our gear to and fro along the Pipeline road and a lot of emergency stops were called for when interesting birds appeared. We saw at least 8 Vulturine Parrots but the other big birds were strangely scarce; only a couple of Eclectus Parrots and a few Blyth's Hornbills were seen each day and we only managed one Palm Cockatoo during our exploration of the area. However, we actually missed very little and the stunning views of a male Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise in display on a dead tree just after dawn will linger long in the memory. At this high point, from the purist's point of view, near ecstasy exploded as a pair of New Guinea Flightless Rails strutted their stuff on the road right by us as we were watching the black and yellow prima donna. Welcome to the exclusive Kikori Megacrex Club! The other big surprise of the day came late on. We had an excellent evening meal at Kopi camp and then made our way back to Kikori. A frogmouth, seen in flight in the truck headlights, landed in clear view and we all had great looks at our first Marbled Frogmouth. We were well pleased with that but were amazed to see at least four more, each giving excellent perched views, on our trundle back to town. An exhilarating end to a quite exceptional day.
Other gems seen along the Pipeline road included a pair of Blue Jewel-babblers, Greater Streaked and Black-capped Lories, Orange-breasted Fig-Parrots, Coroneted, Beautiful and Dwarf Fruit-Doves, Purple-tailed Imperial Pigeons, Rufous-bellied Kookaburras, Lesser Black Coucal, Long-billed Cuckoo, Golden and Grey-headed Cuckoo-shrikes, Black-sided Robin, Long-billed Honeyeater, White-spotted Munias, yet more Twelve-wired Birds of Paradise and Marbled Frogmouths and several Lowland Peltops.
On our last morning the heavens opened and we endured a near vertical bombardment of rain which made us fear for the arrival of our onward charter flight. Around midday the rain eased off to torrential and the drone of the circling plane could be heard above the noise of the downpour. Somehow the pilot of the Heavylift Twin Otter got a sight of the Marston matting airstrip and landed in a cloud of mud and spray. The pilot confirmed my fears that conditions were critical, saying that had the clouds not parted at that point over the airstrip there was no way he could have got down. We were lucky not to have been stranded and thankful for an experienced aircrew, we flew happily on to Kiunga.
Arrangements had been made to do our original Kiunga itinerary in reverse and after a brief stop at Kiunga Guest House to confirm everything, we drove on to Tabubil accompanied by Kwiwan, our local guide. En-route we saw the endemic race of Little Ringed Plover at K120 and enough daylight remained to allow us a short visit to Ok Menga. Apparently, Savadori's Teal had become very difficult to see but after a short scan we located the resident pair on the river and had excellent views of them and also Torrent Flycatcher. Happy with that, we drove on to Tabubil and settled in at Hotel Cloudlands.
The following morning we visited Dablin creek and soon connected with the best birds of the day, an adult Doria's Hawk was seen attending to a fledged juvenile which was calling continuously. These birds gave us excellent views and we could not have had a better start. Carola's Parotias called intermittently and early on we had frustrating glimpses of a couple of females. Eventually many more female-plumaged birds appeared in the fruiting tree nearby and most of us got reasonable views of the two males which appeared briefly. A call high above us then focused our attention on to a fine Mountain Kingfisher which posed for several minutes and then a female Magnificent Bird of Paradise appeared in the nearby fruiting tree to keep the quality at a high level. Other birds of note that morning were Long-tailed Buzzard and Variable Goshawk overhead, a female Dwarf Koel, White-rumped Robin and a couple of Blue-faced Parrot-Finches by the roadside and three Mountain Peltops in the treetops. Lastly, a much desired Obscure Berrypecker performed close by for us at the bottom of the hill. In the afternoon we moved on to Ok Ma but things were very quiet there, the only birds of note being a couple of Black-shouldered Cuckoo-shrikes and two female-plumaged Greater Birds of Paradise. However we waited for dusk and were rewarded with brief but good views of a wary but very tape-responsive Shovel-billed Kingfisher.
Next morning we tried Ok Ma again but the Shovel-billed Kingfisher called but did not show. The only birds of note there were Greater Streaked Lories, Stout-billed and Grey-headed Cuckoo-shrikes and several Northern Fantails. Ok Menga wasn't much better, this time the river was carrying much more water than previously and there was no sign of the Salvadori's Teal and only a single Torrent Flycatcher was on view.
Dablin creek was more interesting, a Red-necked Rail flew across the road and two Beautiful Fruit-Doves fed in a roadside fruiting tree. The female Dwarf Koel was again present and Blue-collared Parrots and Little Red Lorikeets flew over, but in reality, this was a quiet day.
Next day we set off for Kiunga, taking in Ok Ma which was again very quiet, and Ok Menga. This time, due diligence produced a pair of Torrent Larks and two Torrent Flycatchers and Great Woodswallows overhead. K120 produced two Little Ringed Plovers this time as well as a very long range view of our only perched Vulturine Parrot. Closer to Kiunga we paid an afternoon visit to K17 on the Tabubil road. This produced five male and three female Greater Birds of Paradise in the display trees as well as a perched Trumpet Manucode and a couple of Great Cuckoo-Doves.
We overnighted at the Kiunga Guest House and next morning we set off up the Elevala River for a two night stay at Ekame Lodge. The boat trip produced large numbers of Imperial Pigeons which were mostly Collared but we also saw a lot of Pinons overhead. About halfway we stopped off at Kwiwan's village where we saw a female Flame Bowerbird feeding in a fruiting tree in the village garden area. Unfortunately it was too late in the day for any male birds to show. Several hundred Metallic Starlings hawked mayflies off the river surface, there were probably Yellow-eyeds among the swirling starling flock but the light was against us for a thorough look. Channel-billed Cuckoos and Palm Cockatoos also showed well and near the Lodge we got stunning views of three Southern Crowned Pigeons from the boat; one flew heavily across the river and two remained perched and posing. After settling in at Ekame Lodge we then explored the trails upriver. As usual here, we were made to work quite hard for our birds. A Common Paradise-Kingfisher showed well but the Lesser Paradise-Kingfisher proved difficult. In the same area the resident male King Bird of Paradise did not disappoint and eventually we had great views of him as he displayed from the vine tangles in the trees. A male Emperor Fairy-wren was also seen in the same area and a Beautiful Fruit-Dove was seen on its rudimentary nest (one egg) on a palm frond. On the way back to the Lodge, at dusk, we were fortunate to connect with a Papuan Nightjar as it hawked insects over the river, and after we had finished our meal, Kwiwan surprised us all by announcing he had a Sooty Owl in the spotlight. A fine end to a really great day.
Next day we tried again for the Lesser Paradise-Kingfisher and this time we all eventually got good views. A Palm Cockatoo perched prominently on a riverside tree and through the course of the day we saw an incredibly obliging pair of Blue Jewel-babblers and two each of both Hooded and Blue-breasted Pitta. Further upriver we tried our luck in an area of recently flooded forest and were eventually rewarded with a Hook-billed Kingfisher. The local White-bellied Pitohuis were very vocal but quite elusive and it took some time for most people to get good views. Perhaps the most unexpected sight of the day was the three hundred or more Yellow-eyed Starlings and one Metallic (!) stripping palm fronds to pieces to construct a huge communal nest. This is a very enigmatic species and can often be completely absent from the area or ridiculously abundant. We also managed to get good views of White-bellied Thicket-Fantail and Yellow-bellied Longbill nearby and a fine perched view of a Long-tailed Buzzard along the river.
Next morning we explored the Ekame Lodge area and had excellent views of two Spotted Catbirds and another Hooded Pitta before we set off downriver to Kiunga. An adult White-bellied Sea-Eagle was a stirring sight and the riverside regulars also included a Grey-headed Goshawk and a flyover male Flame Bowerbird for some of us. The remainder of the afternoon was spent at K17 where we were treated to a truly incandescent showing of Greater and Raggiana Birds of Paradise in the display trees which undoubtedly swayed the “Best in Show” award in favour of the fabled footless bird. Next morning, along to the Boystown road, we saw both White-throated and Large-tailed Nightjars which were resting on the road. A New Guinea Bronzewing responded rather too well to a playback of its call, it flew bullet-like and low out of cover showing just enough for identification. Better looks were obtained of Pink-spotted and Orange -bellied Fruit-Doves, Zoe and Pinon Imperial Pigeons, Palm Cockatoos and Double-eyed Fig-Parrots.
Later in the morning we flew to Mt Hagen for our first taste of high altitude New Guinea birding. A two hour drive uphill to Kumul Lodge was uneventful apart from many Black Kites and a Variable Goshawk en route to Enga Province. However, at the Lodge, we were soon treated to close views of several stunning species, most notably a female Brehm's Tiger-Parrot and three Brown Sicklebills which were feeding on fruit put out for them by the Lodge staff. Island Thrushes and White-winged Robins hopped among the flower beds and Common Smoky Honeyeaters and Grey-streaked Honeyeaters fed from the garden flowers. Many of the birds here are very tame thanks to the embargo on hunting that has been imposed in the area by the local landowners. The birds have responded by largely ignoring humans and now give birders unrivalled views and fantastic photographic opportunities.
We had a lot of fun at Kumul Lodge and in its surrounds; the birds were just lovely and the weather was kind to us by high mountain standards. Brehm's Tiger Parrots gave us fantastic views, as did Black-breasted Boatbill, Crested Berrypecker, Canary Flycatcher and Mountain Firetail among many more. The feeding station in the Lodge garden was regularly visited by several female Brown Sicklebills and also an immature male. Ribbon-tailed Astrapias also appeared regularly but the males tended to stay in the trees nearby where they nevertheless gave us outstanding views. Chestnut Forest-Rails inhabit the forest and gardens around the Lodge and our first attempt produced an amazingly responsive male in the Orchid Garden where the bird came to within a couple of metres of us. A few minutes later a pair were seen in similar circumstances in the forest opposite. The hoped-for Rufous Woodcock didn't appear despite much searching and it seems probable that the presence of a wild dog in the area has caused their demise. We also explored Kwinyank village which is a new birding area some 20 km along the Wabag road. However, before we got there, we were treated to the incredible sight of a huge diesel tanker on its side in a roadside ditch. There was no sign of the driver who appeared to have ran away but people had begun to gather in an ant-like swarm over the stricken vehicle. Men, women and children were running madly up the hill carrying everything from fifty gallon drums to buckets and jugs to get hold of some of the “free” fuel. The funny side of it all was too much for most of us, especially those familiar with the film Whisky Galore. We gradually picked our way through the throng, passing scores of vessel carriers in the next few kilometres. Unfortunately, the delay reduced our time at Kwinyank village and we nearly missed out. An unexpectedly long and sweaty uphill scramble eventually brought us into the territory of our target species. We were about half an hour late but nerves settled when a male Lesser Bird of Paradise appeared in the hillside trees. We eventually saw three males and a female but we so nearly fell victim to the Papua New Guinean rendering of distance and ease of walking. Here we also saw Ornate Melidectes, Blue-faced Parrot-Finches, several Black-billed Cuckoo-Doves and three Yellow-breasted Bowerbirds. In the evening we also managed to see the Archbold's Nightjar by the Lodge which was a fitting end to a really good day.
Next day, we left Kumul Lodge and set off for Mt Hagen and our next destination, Tari, which was much anticipated as it is the best known birding area in Papua New Guinea. We flew in to Tari where we were met by Steven who owns Warili Lodge and Thomas who had driven a big green troop carrier over from Mt Hagen for us the previous day. We lurched up the road to Warili Lodge and were soon in the groove. Birding was similar in many respects to the Kumul Lodge area but the Tari valley holds some great specialities. We spent our first afternoon along Steven's trail opposite Warili Lodge. Birding was quite slow but we managed to see Marbled Honeyeater, several Papuan King Parrots and a female Lawes' Parotia. The next day was Henk's birthday and probably the best birding day of the tour. Heni, our local guide, took us along the Benari road to his home and after a short wait we were treated to some stunning views of a male Blue Bird of Paradise in his garden. This was one of the most anticipated birds of the tour and the views we got were terrific. Yellow-billed Lorikeets were also there and a female Superb Bird of Paradise also put in an appearance. We then walked to the next ridge where a spell in the forest then rewarded us with excellent views of a male Lawes' Parotia near his display court and lovely views of a male Macgregor's Bowerbird by his bower. While we were watching the bowerbird and Wiel's umbrella was being mutilated by a wild pig, a male Black Sicklebill called from the edge of the forest. To our delight it then flew in and perched close to us and called incredibly loudly. The sight of this fantastic, rare, black-and-blue bird with its extraordinary long tail, bellowing and shaking with the effort was stirring indeed. Quite a treat for the birthday boy! By the track we had great views again of the Blue Bird of Paradise on a dead tree, another male Lawes' Parotia and a pair of Black Monarchs which performed in the bushes close by. On the way back to Warili we saw at least three male Superb Birds of Paradise and a mixed flock of Capped and New Guinea White-eyes. We then drove up to Tari Gap, stopping at the bailey bridge where we saw a large flock of Tit Berrypeckers, two Stephanie's Astrapias and a brief view of a Black-mantled Goshawk. At Tari Gap we had excellent views of Plum-faced Lorikeet, male Brehms Tiger-Parrot and a male King of Saxony Bird of Paradise called from high on on a dead tree. He was probably singing Happy Birthday to Henk!
Next day we explored the area between Ambua Lodge and the bailey bridge. A garden a few hundred metres up from the Ambua Lodge entrance produced a very obliging Short-tailed Paradigalla which fed in a fruiting tree. We had almost made it to the bailey bridge when Ottie noticed that one of the troop carrier's rear wheels had a very unhealthy wobble. A close inspection showed that the wheel had only one loose bolt holding it on. A rapid disembarkation ensued while spare bolts were scrounged from the spare wheel fitting. That was a close thing, the potential consequences do not bear too much thought! Up at the bailey bridge, with nerves mended, a male Garnet Robin appeared briefly and along Benson's trail we did extremely well with at least three female Loria's Birds of Paradise, a female Brown Sicklebill, three female Ribbon-tailed and two female Stephanie's Astrapias. We then realised that male King of Saxony Birds of Paradise were close by and most of us managed to get good looks as two males engaged in their bouncing courtship display on a vine before they raced off in pursuit of an interested female. Then, at the start of Benson's trail we were alerted by the harsh calls of Sanford's Bowerbird and we were treated to an amazing display of two male and two females feeding and squabbling, with one male also going through a partial display sequence. After they had disappeared we headed back downhill and spent the last hour of daylight in the roadside garden. This produced a pair of Wattled Ploughbills and a Papuan Treecreeper before the light failed.
Next day we explored the area between Benson's trail and Tari Gap. We used the morning to look for “grovellers” and Benson's trail produced two very confiding Lesser Ground-Robins, a pair and two other female New Guinea Logrunners and a Spotted Jewel-babbler which unfortunately only showed for a few seconds. Tari Gap came good with an excellent perched Black-mantled Goshawk which Karl picked out at long range with his Howitzers.
Our last morning was spent in the grounds of Ambua Lodge where we had excellent views of a male Stephanie's Astrapia, female Loria's and Superb Birds of Paradise and an immature Madarasz's Tiger-Parrot in a fruiting tree whilst a pair of Hooded Cuckoo-shrikes were seen further down the valley. Our flight to Port Moresby called in at Mendi Airport where a pair of Australian Pipits gave good views by the airstrip.
Next day we spent the morning in Varirata National Park which was disappointingly quiet although the Boundary track produced a couple of Pale-billed Scrub-wrens which were new for the trip. The afternoon was more eventful as we visited Lea Lea. Here we saw Brown Booby, six Lesser Frigatebirds and an Osprey from the beach, Graceful Honeyeaters and a Mangrove Gerygone were seen in the mangroves and a Red-backed Button-Quail was flushed from the grasslands. Two immature Papuan Harriers were also seen in the grasslands as we were leaving the area.
Next day we drove along the Hiritano Highway to Hisiu mangroves. This was quite an eventful day, the most notable birds being a male Great Frigatebird among a flock of Lesser Frigatebirds, at least four Orange-footed Scrubfowl, the only Little Kingfisher of the trip, four Collared Kingfishers and four Mangrove Robins which were in view at the same time. At least thirty Chestnut-breasted Munias were seen along the road through the coconut plantation. A hunt through the dry savanna on the way back produced two White-throated Gerygones and a White-winged Triller, and Yellow-tinted Honeyeaters were abundant at Aroa Service Station.
The next day was a walk right around the Boundary track in Varirata National Park. True to form, birds were sparse but quality was represented by a pair of Painted Quail-thrushes and a Chestnut-backed Jewel-babbler at the halfway stage. We also had great views of Wompoo Fruit-Dove, Mountain Drongo, Dwarf Whistler, White-faced Robin and a delightful pair of Buff-faced Pygmy-Parrots. Returning along the Gare's Lookout trail several of us had good views of a Pheasant Pigeon and a pair of Crested Pitohuis responded well enough to a playback of their own calls to give some reasonable views. We then spent the remainder of the afternoon at the PNG Arts shop where we bought some excellent souvenirs and added Silver-eared Honeyeater to the species total. The last part of the day was spent assembling our gear and supplies for the final part of the tour.
The following morning we set off to Jackson's Airport for our charter flight to Myola, in the Owen Stanley Mountains behind Port Moresby. There had been some local political problems earlier and these had rolled through to that morning. However, careful negotiation finally got us and most of our supplies airborne and we enjoyed our twenty minute flight over the forested mountains. As we touched down on the grass airstrip we were surprised to notice that we had no welcoming party. We were even more surprised to find the whole area deserted. Undaunted by this, we settled in and prepared for a much needed brew up. We forced open the village cookhouse and set out our stores. Unfortunately, nobody had any matches but Daniel and Benjamin saved the day with the traditional bamboo rope and tinder method. Fire was duly generated and the kettle soon boiled. We were very much on our own but luckily we had brought in lots of supplies, the kitchen was well stocked with utensils and we did not go hungry.
Myola is a magical place and we had it all to ourselves. Our three night stay was excellent. We had Spotless Crakes and Lewin's Rails scurrying in the marshland within a hundred metres of our accommodation. A Mountain Owlet-nightjar had its daytime roost in a tree hole close by and due reverence was paid to it every morning. Since we had done a lot of montane birding earlier, this free situation allowed everyone to do whatever they wanted to do, safely and without having to bird as a group. This resulted in some people seeing more than others but everyone saw some really special birds for themselves. Brown Falcons were nesting in the forest nearby, Blue Quail could be flushed from the grassland, especially near the airstrip and Papuan Harriers could be seen there, probably seeking the same thing. The forest floor held New Guinea Logrunners, Spotted Jewel-babblers, Lesser Melampittas, Lesser Ground-robins and Forbes' Forest-Rails. Goldie's Lorikeets roosted in the Pandanus palms by the huts and at dawn there was a noisy exodus. Each morning, Shovel-billed Kingfishers could be heard calling in the hills in the first few minutes of daylight, but we never managed to call one in. Robins were well represented and almost everyone managed excellent views of the full range available : both male and female Garnet Robins were seen nearby and Ashy, Black-throated and Blue-grey Robins were all seen less than a hundres metres from the village. Small flocks of both Black and Papuan Sittellas were seen and eventually everyone caught up with one or both of the Papuan Treecreepers that inhabited the forest close to the airstrip. In the same area, a pair of Eastern Alpine Munias were seen by some of us but, as this species does at Myola, they disappeared as ethereally as they arrived. This enigmatic species is a kilometre below its normal mountain top range when it shows up at Myola. A pair of Torrent-larks gave us excellent views along the river nearby and in the same area, an adult male Stephanie's Astrapia performed in the trees. Loria's were the only other male birds of paradise seen at Myola but female Loria's, female Brown Sicklebills, female Stephanie's Astrapias were seen daily in the trees and shrubbery by the village.
We enjoyed some fantastic birding in this place made all the more memorable by the beauty of the surroundings. We were all alone in a little village built on grassland in an old volcanic crater surrounded by forest. With the pressure to see everything reduced to a minimum we all agreed that Myola was the best place we had visited in Papua New Guinea. On our last afternoon and evening it rained heavily but the morning was bright and clear. The last few hours of our stay produced more good sightings for everyone and feelings of relief were tinged with sadness when the drone of our charter plane was heard. Our flight back to Port Moresby was spectacular, our pilot was an old hand and took us low over the forest, sometimes it seemed we were only a few metres above the treetops and mountain ridges. Port Moresby was hot and dusty by contrast but it was good to be back in time for our flight to Singapore in the afternoon.
A ballot to decide the best birds of the trip produced the following result :
3 Blue Bird of Paradise 4 Twelve-wired Bird of Paradise
5 King of Saxony Bird of Paradise 6 Superb Bird of Paradise
7 Black Sicklebill 8 = King Bird of Paradise
8 = Emperor Wren 10 = Pheasant Pigeon
10 = Black-mantled Goshawk
This 28 day tour around many of the well-known birding sites in Papua New Guinea produced a very healthy list of sightings. We missed a few and some of the birds we saw are the stuff of dreams. The challenge is now there for subsequent tours of similar duration to better what we saw; it will take some doing.
The total number of species seen was 376 plus 6 others heard only.
ITINERARY
23 July : Depart London Heathrow.
24 July : Arrive Singapore, depart for Port Moresby.
25 July : Arrive Port Moresby, visit Kokoda Trail Monument and Varirata
National Park, stay at the Hideaway Hotel, Port Moresby.
26 July : Varirata National Park, Boundary track and Varirata Lookout trail.
27 July : Varirata National Park, Gare's Lookout trail, Park entrance road and
Pacific Adventist University.
28 July : Jackson's Airport boundary, Pacific Adventist University then fly to
Kikori, Pipeline road from Kopi to K155, stay at CDI/Delta Lodge,
Kikori.
29 July : Pipeline road from K170 to Kopi north to K155.
30 July : Pipeline road from K170 to K158.
31 July : Charter flight to Kiunga, drive to Tabubil via K120 and Ok Menga;
stay at Hotel Cloudlands.
01 August : Dablin creek and Ok Ma.
02 August : Ok Ma, Ok Menga and Dablin creek.
03 August : Ok Ma, Ok Menga, drive to Kiunga via K120 and K17, stay at Kiunga
Guest House.
04 August : Elevala River, stay at Ekame Lodge.
05 August : Elevala River.
06 August : Elevala River to Kiunga and K17, stay at Kiunga Guest House.
07 August : Boystown road then fly to Mt Hagen and drive to Kumul Lodge.
08 August : Kumul Lodge area.
09 August : Kwinyank village, Wabag road and Kumul Lodge area.
10 August : Kumul Lodge, Mt Hagen Airport, Tari airport and Steven's trail by
Warili Lodge.
11 August : Benari road and Tari Gap
12 August : Garden above Ambua Lodge, bailey bridge, Benson's trail, Ambua
Lodge grounds and nearby garden again.
13 August : Tari Gap, Benson's trail, Warili Lodge area and Tari Gap again.
14 August : Ambua Lodge grounds, Tari Airport for flight to Port Moresby via
Mendi, stay at Hideaway Hotel.
15 August : Varirata National Park, Circuit, Stream and Tree House trails,
Boundary track and Kokoda Trail Monument, Lea Lea in afternoon.
16 August : Hiritano Highway, Hisiu mangroves and Aroa savanna.
17 August : Varirata National Park, complete circuit of Boundary track.
18 August : Charter to Myola
19 August : Myola
20 August : Myola
21 August : Myola, charter to Port Moresby, afternoon Singapore flight,
evening arrival in Singapore, overnight Singapore.
22 August : Depart Singapore, evening arrival London Heathrow.
Altitude in metres for some of the significant sites visited :
Elevala River (Ekame Lodge) 45m Ok Menga 700m
Dablin Creek 720m Mt Hagen town 1650m
Kumul Lodge 2809 Warili Lodge 1975m
Ambua Lodge 2040m Tari Gap 2660m
Myola 2075m
Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H).
CASUARIIDAE : Cassowaries
Southern Cassowary Casuarius casuarius : Fresh footprints were noted daily near Ekame
Lodge.
PODICIPEDIDAE : Grebes
Australasian Grebe Tachybaptus novaehollandiae : Single birds were seen on the Laloki
River near the Kokoda Trail Monument and at the Pacific Adventist University.
FREGATIDAE : Frigatebirds
Great Frigatebird Fregata minor : A female was seen in a group of Lesser Frigatebirds F.
ariel at Hisiu mangroves.
Lesser Frigatebird Fregata ariel : 6 were seen at Lea Lea and 23 at Hisiu mangroves.
PHALACROCORACIDAE : Cormorants
Little Black Cormorant Phalacrocorax sulcirostris : At least 40 were seen at the Pacific
Adventist University and in the Laloki River valley. 2 were noted on the Laloki
River near the Kokoda Trail Monument and at least 60 were seen along the
Hiritano Highway
Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos : Up to 5 were seen at the
Pacific Adventist University and 16 were seen along the Hiritano Highway.
ANHINGIDAE : Darters
Australian Darter Anhinga novaehollandiae : 3 were seen at the Pacific Adventist
University, 4 over Hisiu mangroves and a single bird was noted soaring over
Varirata National Park.
SULIDAE : Boobies
Brown Booby Sula leucogaster : A single bird was seen at Lea Lea.
ARDEIDAE : Herons
Great Egret Egretta alba : Up to 7 were seen daily along the Elevala River, 3 were noted
on the new rice fields in the Laloki River valley, 5 were seen at the Pacific
Adventist University, up to 3 at Jackson's Airport, Port Moresby and at least 10
were seen along the Hiritano Highway.
Pied Heron Egretta picata : Up to 8 were seen on the new rice fields in the Laloki River
valley.
Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia : Single birds were seen at the Pacific Adventist
University and at Hisiu mangroves.
Little Egret Egretta garzetta : 2 were noted on the new rice fields in the Laloki River
valley and at the Pacific Adventist University and a single bird was seen along
the Elevala River.
Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis : At least 70 were seen daily in the Laloki River valley, at least
30 were seen at the Pacific Adventist University, and up to 100 were seen daily
at Jackson's Airport, Port Moresby.
White-faced Heron Egretta novaehollandiae : A single bird was seen at the roadside
boundary of Jackson's Airport, Port Moresby.
Pacific Reef Heron Egretta sacra : 2 were seen at Lea Lea.
Striated Heron Butorides striata: A single bird was seen along the Elevala River and 2
were seen at Hisiu mangroves.
Rufous Night-Heron Nycticorax caledonicus : 10 were seen at the Pacific Adventist
University and single birds were seen flying over Jackson's Airport, Port
Moresby, on two occasions..
THRESKIORNITHIDAE Ibises and Spoonbills
Australian White Ibis Threskiornis molucca : Up to 10 were seen at the Pacific
Adventist University, 3 in the Laloki River valley and 3 were noted along the
Hiritano Highway.
DENDROCYGNIDAE : Whistling-ducks
Spotted Whistling Duck Dendrocygna guttata : 16 were seen in their preferred roost
trees near the sewage settling ponds at the Pacific Adventist University.
Wandering Whistling Duck Dendrocygna arcuta : 40 were seen at the Pacific
Adventist University.
ANATIDAE : Ducks, Geese and Swans
Green Pygmy-Goose Nettapus pulchellus : A single female was seen at the Pacific
Adventist University.
Salvadori's Teal Salvadorina waigiuensis : 2 were seen on the river at Ok Menga.
Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa : At least 80 were seen at the Pacific Adventist
University, 8 were seen at Mt Hagen Airport and 14 were seen at Lea Lea.
ACCIPITRIDAE : Hawks, Eagles and Allies
Osprey Pandion haliaetus : A single bird was seen at Lea Lea.
Pacific Baza (Crested Hawk) Aviceda subcristata : Up to 3 were seen daily along the
Pipeline road, Kikori and up to 5 were seen daily along the Elevala River.
Long-tailed Buzzard Henicopernis longicauda : Up to 3 were seen along the Elevala
River, 2 were seen at Varirata National Park, 2 were noted between K120 and
Tabubil and a single bird was seen at daily at Dablin creek, Tabubil.
Black Kite Milvus migrans : At least 15 were seen between Mt Hagen and Kumul Lodge
6 at Mt Hagen airport, up to 15 daily in the Kumul Lodge area and single birds
were seen in the Laloki River valley and at Jackson's Airport, Port Moresby.
Whistling Kite Haliastur sphenurus : 3 were seen at the Pacific Adventist University, 8
were seen at Hisiu mangroves and single birds were seen along the Elevala River
and along the Boystown road near Kiunga..
Brahminy Kite Haliastur indus : Regularly encountered in the lowlands with up to 8
seen in the Laloki River valley and along the Elevala River and smaller numbers
were noted elsewhere. Up to 4 were seen in the Tabubil area and in the
highlands, single birds were noted near Kumul Lodge and Warili Lodge.
White-bellied Sea-Eagle Haliaeetus leucogaster : An adult bird was seen along the
Elevala River.
Papuan Harrier Circus spilonotus : 2 'ringtails' and a male were seen at Mt Hagen
Airport, 2 ringtails (probably immatures) were seen in the grasslands at Lea Lea,
an adult male was seen briefly along the Hiritano Highway and a rigtail and an
adult male were seen on separate occasions at Myola.
Variable Goshawk Accipiter novaehollandiae : 2 were seen along the Pipeline road,
Kikori and single birds were noted at Varirata National Park, Dablin creek,
Tabubil, at K120 near Tabubil, along the Elevala River, along the Boystown
road near Kiunga and along the Hiritano Highway.
Black-mantled Goshawk Accipiter melanochlamys : Adult birds were seen on two
occasions, once in flight over the bailey bridge and it or another gave us
excellent views as it posed in a tree at Tari Gap.
Grey-headed Goshawk Accipiter poliocephalus : Single adult birds were seen along the
Boystown road near Kiunga and along the Elevala River.
Collared Sparrowhawk Accipiter cirrhocephalus : Single birds were seen at Varirata
National Park, near Aroa, near the Ambua Lodge entrance and at Myola.
Doria's Hawk Megatriorchis doriae : An adult bird and recently fledged, vocal juvenile
gave us great views, both perched and in flight, at Dablin creek.
Gurney's Eagle Aquila gurneyi : An adult was seen twice and an immature once at
Varirata National Park.
Little Eagle Hieraaetus morphnoides : Single birds were seen at Varirata National Park
and Myola.
FALCONIDAE : Falcons
Brown Falcon Falco berigora : A nesting pair were seen daily at Myola.
Australian Kestrel Falco cenchroides : A single bird was seen near Lea Lea.
Australian Hobby Falco longipennis : Single birds were seen near the roadside boundary
of Jackson's Airport, Port Moresby and at Kopi camp, Kikori.
MEGAPODIIDAE : Megapodes
Orange-footed Megapode Megapodius reinwardt : A single bird was seen briefly by the
side of the Pipeline road, Kikori, 6 were seen at Hisiu mangroves and calling
birds were heard daily at Myola.
Black-billed Brush Turkey Talegalla fuscirostris : (H) Calling birds were heard at
Varirata National Park, along the Pipeline road, Kikori, along the Elevala River
and along the Boystown road near Kiunga.
PHASIANIDAE : Quail, Pheasants and allies
Brown Quail Coturnix australis : 6 were seen at Tari Gap.
Blue-breasted Quail Coturnix chinensis : 4 single birds were seen in the grasslands at
Myola.
TURNICIDAE : Button -quail
Red-backed Button-quail Turnix maculosa : A single bird was flushed twice in the
grasslands at Lea Lea.
RALLIDAE : Rails
Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus philippensis : A single bird was seen on the road near Warili
Lodge.
Lewin's Rail Rallus pectoralis : 1 or 2 were seen daily and several others were heard in
the swampy grasslands at Myola, particularly in the patch near our
accommodation.
Chestnut Forest-Rail Rallina rubra : A pair was seen on a forest trail below Kumul
Lodge and a male was seen in the orchid garden nearby. On both occasions the
birds reacted strongly to playback of a taped call, giving us excellent views down
to a couple of metres. Another male was seen near the mumu pit taking the day's
total to four birds. The following day 2 individual females were seen near the
Lodge.
Forbes' Forest-Rail Rallina forbesi : A female was seen by some of us at Myola.
Red-necked Rail Rallina tricolor : A single bird flew over the main track at Dablin creek.
White-browed Crake Porzana cinerea : A single bird was seen on two consecutive visits
to the Pacific Adventist University.
Spotless Crake Porzana tabuensis : Many sightings involving at least 2 adults and a single
chick were obtained daily at the 'crake patch' near our accommodation at Myola.
New Guinea Flightless Rail Megacrex inepta : Whilst watching a displaying male Twelve-
wired Bird of Paradise Seleucidis melanoleuca along the Pipeline road, Kikori, a
pair of these amazing birds wandered out of the roadside vegetation and
plodded around, giving us great 'scope views. At times, both birds held their tiny
wings up like sails. With long, heavy black legs looking like fisherman's waders
and large conical, yellow bills, these great rarities further enhanced their
strangeness by flexing up their tiny, flightless wings like sails. After about a
minute, the 'kianis' melted back into the swamp forest leaving ten birders stunned
but very happy.
Dusky Moorhen Gallinula tenebrosa : At least 16 were seen at the Pacific Adventist
University.
Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio : At least 20 were seen at the Pacific Adventist
University, at least 10 were seen on the new rice fields in the Laloki River valley
and along the Hiritano Highway and 3 were noted near the Kokoda Trail
Monument.
JACANIDAE : Jacanas
Comb-crested Jacana Irediparra gallinacea : 6 were seen at the Pacific Adventist
University.
CHARADRIIDAE : Lapwings and Plovers
Masked Lapwing Vanellus miles : At least 5 were seen at the Pacific Adventist
University, at Jackson's Airport, Port Moresby and in the Laloki River valley.
Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva : 3 were seen at Hisiu beach.
Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius : 2 birds of the resident race papuanus were
seen at K120 en-route to and from Tabubil. Leg and eye ring colours differ from
the migrant race curonicus and as the voices differ too there is the distinct
possibility of a split being proposed by an authority before long.
Greater Sand-Plover Charadrius lescenaultii : 2 were seen at Hisiu beach
SCOLOPACIDAE : Sandpipers, Snipes and Allies
Eastern Curlew Numenius madagascariensis : 5 were seen at Lea Lea and a single bird
was seen at Hisiu beach.
Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus : 2 were seen at Lea Lea and at Hisiu beach.
Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos : A single bird was seen at Hisiu beach.
LARIDAE : Gulls and Terns
Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica : A single bird was seen on Hisiu beach.
Common Tern Sterna hirundo : A single bird was seen at Lea Lea.
Crested Tern Sterna bergii : 2 were seen at Lea Lea and 4 at Hisiu beach.
COLUMBIDAE : Pigeons and Doves
Rock Pigeon Columba livia : 8 multicoloured specimens of this unwelcome feral species
were seen at Jackson's Airport, Port Moresby.
Slender-billed (Brown) Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia amboinensis : This widespread
species was seen in all of the lowland and foothill localities we visited. Best
counts were at least 6 in Varirata National Park and at Dablin creek, Tabubil, 4
at Tapuka quarry and along the Boystown road near Kiunga and 3 along the
Elevala River.
Black-billed Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia nigrirostris : 4 were seen at Kwinyank village
along the Wabag road below Kumul Lodge, 2 were seen at Kumul Lodge, 3 at
Myola and single birds were noted at the bailey bridge and Tari Gap.
Great Cuckoo-Dove Reinwardtoena reinwardtii : 2 were seen at K17; single birds were
seen daily along the Pipeline road near Kikori, and others were seen at Ok Ma
and Varirata National Park.
Emerald Dove Chalocphaps indica : Single birds were seen flying through the duck roost
at the Pacific Adventist University and at Varirata National Park.
Peaceful Dove Geopelia placida : At least 20 were seen near the Kokoda Trail Monument,
8 at the Pacific Adventist University and 5 were seen at Hisiu mangroves.
Bar-shouldered Dove Geopelia humeralis : 4 were seen at the Pacific Adventist
University, 2 at Lea Lea and at least 20 were seen around the Hisiu mangroves.
Bronze Ground-Dove Gallicolumba beccari : An immature bird was seen twice and an
adult once at Myola.
Pheasant Pigeon Otidiphaps nobilis : One appeared along the Gare's Lookout trail,
Varirata National Park, for some of us. A calling bird was also noted at Ok Ma,
Tabubil.
Southern Crowned Pigeon Goura scheepmakeri :. 2 were seen perched in trees along the
Elevala River above Ekame Lodge giving us great views. Another was flushed
from the same area, flying downriver with typical thundering wingbeats. Calling
birds were also heard each morning near the Lodge. A truly spectacular species
and a major highlight of the trip.
Wompoo Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus magnificus : 1 or 2 were seen daily in the Ekame Lodge
area and a single bird was seen along the Boundary track in Varirata National
Park. Calling birds were noted daily along the Pipeline road, Kikori.
Pink-spotted Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus perlatus : At least 30 of this attractive species were
seen in Varirata National Park, at least 10 at K17 and 4 were seen at Dablin
creek, Tabubil..
Ornate Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus ornatus : A single bird was seen in in Varirata National
Park.
Orange-fronted Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus aurantiifrons : A single bird was seen at the
Pacific Adventist University and 2 were seen at Hisiu mangroves.
Superb Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus superbus : 1 or 2 were seen daily along the Pipeline road,
Kikori, 2 were seen along the Elevala River and a single bird was noted at K17
near Kiunga.
Coroneted Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus coronulatus : Single birds were seen daily in fruiting
trees along the Pipeline road, Kikori.
Beautiful Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus pulchellus : 2 were seen along the Pipeline road, Kikori
and at Dablin creek, Tabubil and a single bird was noted along the Elevala River.
White-breasted Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus rivoli : 6 were seen between Benson's trail and
Tari Gap.
Orange-bellied Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus iozonus : Up to 10 were seen in Varirata National
Park, 4 along the Elevala River, 2 at K17 and 4 along the Boystown road near
Kiunga.
Dwarf Fruit-Dove Ptilinopus nanus : 2 were seen along the Pipeline road, Kikori.
Purple-tailed Imperial Pigeon Ducula rufigaster : 4 were seen along the Pipeline road,
Kikori and 3 others were seen there the following day.
Pinon Imperial Pigeon Ducula pinon : Up to 30 were seen on most days along the
Pipeline road, Kikori and at least 15 were seen along the Elevala River with 2
noted at K17 and along the Boystown road near Kiunga.
Collared Imperial Pigeon Ducula muellerii : Out of the hundreds of distant Imperial
Pigeons that were seen along the Elevala River, about 75 were confidently
identified as this species.
Zoe Imperial Pigeon Ducula zoeae : 1 or 2 were seen daily along the Pipeline road,
Kikori, 2 were seen along the Boystown road and a single bird was noted at K17
near Kiunga.
Torresian Imperial Pigeon Ducula spilorrhoa : At least 10 were seen flying over the
Aroa/Hisiu mangroves area, 5 were seen at the Pacific Adventist University and
single birds were seen twice near Kikori.
Papuan Mountain Pigeon Gymnophaps albertisii : At least 50 were seen over the
Boystown road near Kiunga, at least 40 were noted daily in the Tari valley and
at least 30 were seen over the Elevala River with smaller numbers of overflying
birds noted elsewhere.
CACATUIDAE : Cockatoos
Palm Cockatoo Probosciger aterrimus : Up to 6 were seen daily along the Elevala River,
3 were seen along the Boystown road near Kiunga and a single bird was seen
along the Pipeline road, Kikori.
Sulphur-crested Cockatoo Cacatua galerita : Up to 8 were seen daily along the Elevala
River and in Varirata National Park and up to 6 were seen daily along the
Pipeline road, Kikori. Single birds were noted at K17 and at Dablin creek near
Tabubil.
PSITTACIDAE : Parrots
Greater Streaked Lory Chalcopsitta scintillata : Up to 30 were seen daily along the
Pipeline road, Kikori, 12 were seen at Ok Ma near Tabubil, and up to 6 were
seen daily along the Elevala River.
Dusky Lory Pseudeos fuscata : 3 were seen in flight,briefly, along the Hiritano Highway.
Rainbow Lorikeet Trichoglossus haematodus : At least 16 of this noisy species were
seen feeding in a flowering tree at the Pacific Adventist University. Up to 10
were seen along the Hiritano Highway, 6 were seen at Ok Menga, Tabubil and
up to 4 were seen in Varirata National Park and near the Kokoda Trail
Monument, Sogeri.
Goldie's Lorikeet Psitteuteles goldei : At least 50 were seen at Kumul Lodge, at least 40
were seen at Tari Gap and at least 40 were seen daily at Myola when entering or
leaving their roost in a cluster of Pandanus trees.
Black-capped Lory Lorius lory : Up to 6 were seen in Varirata National Park, 20 along
the Pipeline road, Kikori, 8 along the Elevala River, 4 at Ok Ma, Tabubil and 2
were noted at K17near Kiunga.
Red-flanked Lorikeet Charmosyna placentis : Remarkably scarce this visit; near Kiunga
we only saw 4 at K17 and 15 along the Boystown road.10 at Dablin creek,
Tabubil were our only other sightings.
Little Red Lorikeet Charmosyna pulchella : 5 flew over Dablin creek, Tabubil.
Papuan Lorikeet Charmosyna papou : Up to 8, mostly dark-phase birds, were seen
daily around Kumul Lodge and up to 4 red-phase were seen between the
bailey bridge and Tari Gap.
Plum-faced Lorikeet Oreopsittacus arfaki : These endearing creatures proved to be rather
scarce this visit with only 2 seen daily at Kumul Lodge and up to 7 daily between
the bailey bridge and Tari Gap.
Yellow-billed Lorikeet Neopsittacus musschenbroekii : At least 8 were seen feeding
along the entry road to Ambua Lodge, 4 were seen along Steven's trail near
Warili Lodge and 2 were seen along the Benari road.
Orange-billed Lorikeet Neopsittacus pullicauda : 5 seen near the bailey bridge below
Tari Gap were our only sightings of this species.
Pesquet's (Vulturine) Parrot Psittatrichas fulgidus : Up to 8 of these magnificent
parrots were seen daily along the Pipeline road, Kikori and a single bird was seen
perched high on a distant ridge from K120 near Tabubil.
Buff-faced Pygmy-Parrot Micropsitta pusio : 2 were seen on two occasions, three weeks
apart, at diametrically opposite points along the Boundary track in Varirata
National Park.
Yellow-capped Pygmy-Parrot Micropsitta keiensis : 2 gave good perched views along
the Pipeline road, Kikori.
Orange-breasted Fig-Parrot Cyclopsitta gulielmiterti : Up to 8 were seen daily along
the Pipeline road, Kikori, and 4 were seen daily at Dablin creek, Tabubil.
Double-eyed Fig-Parrot Cyclopsitta diophthalma: 2 were seen along the Boystown
road near Kiunga.
Large Fig-Parrot Psittaculirostris desmarestii : 6 overflying birds were noted : single
birds were seen flying over the Pipeline road, Kikori on two occasions and 4
single birds were seen over the Elevala River.
Brehm's Tiger-Parrot Psittacella brehmii : Up to 3 birds, a male and 2 females, gave us
exceptional views as they fed in the grounds of Kumul Lodge, on several
occasions. A male and female were also attracted to the fruit put out on the
feeders by the Lodge staff, giving great views from the balcony. Single birds
were also seen at the bailey bridge and Tari Gap.
Painted Tiger-Parrot Psittacella picta : A female was seen in the grounds of Kumul
Lodge.
Madarasz's Tiger-Parrot Psittacella madaraszi : An immature bird was seen in the
grounds of Ambua Lodge feeding in a fruiting tree near chalet 7.
Red-cheeked Parrot Geoffroyus geoffroyi : At least 6 were seen daily in Varirata
National Park, 2 at the Pacific Adventist University and up to 4 were seen
daily along the Pipeline road, Kikori. At least 5 were seen at K17 and along the
Boystown road, Kiunga, up to 6 were seen daily along the Elevala River and at
least 10 were seen at Hisiu mangroves.
Blue-collared Parrot Geoffroyus simplex : Totals of 15 were heard and eventually seen
flying over Dablin creek, Tabubil. on two consecutive days. A single bird was
also noted flying high over the Benari road, Tari valley.Typically distant dot-like
views of this enigmatic species; does it ever perch?
Eclectus Parrot Eclectus roratus : Rather scarce this visit with only 2 seen daily along the
Pipeline road, Kikori and up to 8 daily along the Elevala River. 3 were noted
along the Boystown road, 2 at K17 near Kiunga and single birds were seen at
Dablin creek and Ok Ma near Tabubil.
Papuan King Parrot Alisterus chloropterus : A really good showing this trip with 4 seen
along Steven's trail below Warili Lodge and another by the Lodge itself.. A
single bird was also seen along the Pipeline road, Kikori.
CUCULIDAE : Cuckoos
Brush Cuckoo Cacomantis variolosus : Heard much more often than seen in the foothills
and lowlands. Single birds were seen on two occasions along the Pipeline road,
Kikori and another was seen at Kwinyank village along the Wabag road below
Kumul Lodge.
Chestnut-breasted Cuckoo Cacomantis castaneiventris : (H) Single birds were heard
calling in Varirata National Park and at Dablin creek, Tabubil.
Fan-tailed Cuckoo Cacomantis flabelliformis : Single birds were seen at Tari Gap and at
Myola.
Long-billed Cuckoo Rhamphomantis megarhynchus : A male was seen twice along the
Pipeline road, Kikori.
Rufous-throated Bronze-Cuckoo Chrysococcyx ruficollis : A single bird was seen by
Karl and Ottie at Kumul Lodge. Calling birds were also noted near Ambua
Lodge and at Myola.
White-eared Bronze-Cuckoo Chrysococcyx meyerii : Single birds were seen daily at
Dablin creek, Tabubil.
White-crowned Koel Caliechthrus leucolophus : Single birds were seen on two occasions
along the Pipeline road, Kikori. One was also heard calling along the Benari road
in the Tari valley.
Dwarf Koel Microdynamis parva : A female was seen on consecutive days in a fruiting
tree at Dablin creek, Tabubil. A calling bird was also noted along the Boystown
road,Kiunga.
Australian Koel Eudynamys cyanocephala : Up to 3 were seen daily along the Elevala
River and a female was seen at K17 near Kiunga.
Common Koel Eudaynamis scolopacea : A male and later a female were seen along the
Pipeline road, Kikori. A female was also seen in Varirata National Park.
Channel-billed Cuckoo Scythrops novaehollandiae : 5 were seen along the Elevala River.
CENTROPODIDAE : Coucals
Greater Black Coucal Centropus menbeki : (H) Calling birds were noted daily along the
Elevala River.
Lesser Black Coucal Centropus bernsteini : A single bird was seen twice at K17 near
Kiunga and 2 were seen along the Pipeline road, Kikori.
Pheasant Coucal Centropus phasianus : Up to 3 were seen daily along the Laloki River
valley. 6 were also seen along the Hiritano Highway.The pidgin name for this
bird is "Lapun Meri" meaning "Old Woman".
TYTONIDAE : Barn Owls
Greater Sooty Owl Tyto tenebricosa : A single bird was spotlighted at Ekame Lodge and
a calling bird was noted on two nights at Myola. A bird purchased by Steven
Wari from local boys in Tari was released at Warili Lodge. Apparently one bird
of the pair was killed, the other caught. It is not yet known if these were the pair
that gave so many visitors the pleasure of seeing them at their tree-hole nest at
Alukambe village in the Tari valley.
STRIGIDAE : Typical Owls
Jungle Hawk-Owl (Boobook) Ninox theomacha : A single bird was seen by Henk near
Ekame Lodge. Others were heard calling at Ok Ma, Tabubil, near Ekame Lodge
and near Warili Lodge each night.
AEGOTHELIDAE : Owlet-nightjars
Feline Owlet-nightjar Aegotheles insignis : (H) A calling bird was heard at Myola.
Barred Owlet-nightjar Aegotheles bennetti : We had excellent views of one at its
daytime roost near the main picnic area in Varirata National Park.
Mountain Owlet-nightjar Aegotheles albertisi : One flew in through the window of
Max's car near Kumul Lodge and was caught by hand. The bird was shown to all
the visitors and then released safely in the garden. Another was seen daily at its
daytime roost in a tree hole at Myola giving us excellent views.
PODARGIDAE : Frogmouths
Marbled Frogmouth Podargus ocellatus : At least 5 were seen along the Pipeline road
between Kopi and Kikori and at least 4 were seen the following night. This is an
astonishing sequence of sightings. Another bird was seen at roost near Ekame
Lodge and more typically one was also heard calling at Ekame Lodge.
Papuan Frogmouth Podargus papuensis : 3 were seen at roost at the Pacific Adventist
University and 2 were seen there the following day.
CAPRIMULGIDAE : Nightjars
White-throated Nightjar Eurostopodus mystacalis : One was seen in the vehicle
headlights along the Boystown road near Kiunga before first light.
Papuan Nightjar Eurostopodus papuensis : A single bird was seen shortly after dark
along the Elevala River giving excellent views in the spotlight.
Archbold's (Mountain) Nightjar Eurostopodus archboldi : A single bird was
spotlighted shortly after 1900hrs on two occasions at Kumul Lodge giving us
excellent perched views in the spotlight.
Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus : 2 were seen on the road between Warili
Lodge and Benari road and single birds were seen along the Benari road, Kiunga
and along the entrance road to Varirata National Park.
APODIDAE : Swifts
Mountain Swiftlet Collocalia hirundinacea : At least 15 were seen daily over Warili
Lodge and over the grasslands beyond Tari Gap. 4 were seen over Warili Lodge
and 2 were noted over Kwinyank village along the Wabag road below Kumul
Lodge.
Glossy Swiftlet Collocalia esculenta : Common in most of the locations visited with up to
40 seen daily at Varirata National Park, up to 50 seen daily along the Pipeline
road, Kikori, up to 15 at Kumul Lodge, up to 15 in the Ambua Lodge to Tari
Gap area and at least 60 were seen daily at Myola.
Uniform Swiftlet Collocalia vanikorensis : This swiftlet was seen throughout the
lowland and foothill areas visited, with up to 100 daily along the Pipeline
road, Kikori , up to 50 daily over Dablin creek, Tabubil and smaller numbers
noted in other locations.
Papuan Needletail Mearnsia novaeguineae : Up to 30 were seen daily along the
Pipeline road, Kikori and up to 6 were seen daily along the Elevala River.
HEMIPROCNIDAE : Tree-swifts
Moustached Tree-swift Hemiprocne mystacea : 2 were seen along the Pipeline road,
Kikori, up to 7 were seen daily on power wires near Tabubil and up to 6 were
seen daily along the Elevala River.
ALCEDINIDAE : Small Kingfishers
Common (River) Kingfisher Alcedo atthis : Single birds were seen on the Laloki River,
Sogeri and at the Pacific Adventist University.
Azure Kingfisher Alcedo azurea : A single bird was seen on the river by the ford along the
entrance road to Varirata National Park.
Little Kingfisher Alcedo pusilla : A single bird was seen at Hisiu mangroves.
Variable (Dwarf) Kingfisher Ceyx lepidus : Single birds were seen on two occasions in
Varirata National Park and others were heard along the Pipeline road, Kikori.and
near Ekame Lodge
HALCYONIDAE : Tree Kingfishers
Rufous-bellied Kookaburra Dacelo gaudichaud : 1 or 2 of these impressive birds were
seen daily along the Pipeline road, Kikori. 2 were seen at K17 and a single bird
was noted at Ok Ma, Tabubil.
Blue-winged Kookaburra Dacelo leachii : 1 or 2 were seen daily in or near Varirata
National Park, 2 were seen near Lea Lea and a single bird was noted at Hisiu
mangroves.
Collared Kingfisher Halcyon chloris : 8 were seen at Hisiu mangroves.
Sacred Kingfisher Halcyon sancta : 3 were seen in the Laloki River valley and 2 were
seen at the Pacific Adventist University. Up to 5 were seen daily along the
Elevala River, 4 at Ok Menga and 6 were seen at Hisiu mangroves.
Hook-billed Kingfisher Melidora macrorrhina : One of these spectacular birds was